Showing posts with label silver paste lockets. Show all posts
Showing posts with label silver paste lockets. Show all posts

Monday, January 9, 2012

The Look Of Love



I have been collecting antique silver lockets and mourning lockets for quite some time for their unique beauty and charming history.  Because so many of them originated in Europe during the 1800’s, they are not as abundantly found here in the US. 




Additionally, I have recently been very enamored by what is commonly know as “Lover’s Eye” or miniature eye portraits.  My fascination began when I found a slide bracelet that integrated several of the “Lover’s Eyes” into the design.  As much as I loved the bracelet, the cost was truly astronomical and I passed on the opportunity to be the new owner.  Antique “Lover’s Eye” lockets are quite expensive, ranging in the thousands of dollars for one.  The history of how these came to be fashionable is not only very interesting, but endearing.

Still I have a serious confession. Even though I'm in new quarters, all refurnished with new posters and a brand-new bed, and friends more often say, "You're looking good, old buddy," there is something that I've kept of Jenny, who was once my wife.  

In the bottom drawer of the desk at home are Jenny's glasses. Yes. Both pairs of Jenny's glasses.  Because a glance at them reminds me of of the lovely eyes that looked through them to look through me. - Eric Segal, Oliver's Story

“There's a reason the poets remind us the eyes are the window to the soul.  Because they are. Eyes are the finest feature a man or woman can possess. And wield.
The invention of "A Lover's Eye" is credited to Mrs. Fitzherbert.  Due to all the secrecy surrounding her we can never be quite sure, but it is believed that sometime around 1785 Mrs. Fitzherbert commissioned Richard A. Cosway, one of London's most accomplished miniaturists, to paint one of her lovely eyes. Not her entire face.  The portrait was done on ivory, placed behind glass and set within a locket. She gave it as a present to her third husband. The reason for all the secrecy between Mrs. Fitzherbert and her husband is that their marriage was an illicit one. In the eyes of the British courts and Church which were one and the same, it was invalid. Though, in the eyes of Mrs. Fitzherbert's own Church, the Catholic Church, it was completely valid.
Mrs. Fitzherbert, a twice-widowed Catholic, had married the Prince of Wales, the future George IV. The Marriage Act of 1772 prevented descendants of George II from marrying Catholics.  If the marriage of Mrs. Fitzherbert and the Prince had become known, he would not have succeeded to the throne. So the marriage, contracted in secret, remained in secret. The Prince of Wales, caught firmly between love and duty, could not be found wearing a portrait of his beloved wife.  But he could wear a portrait of her eye. If anyone, political friend or foe, chanced to see the eye, they could not say  with complete authority it was Mrs. Fitzherbert.   
Due to the pressing demands of his father, the King, and his even more pressing gambling debts, the Prince of Wales did commit bigamy by marrying the rich Protestant princess, Caroline of Brunswick.  That marriage was a disaster. He was drunk during the ceremony and they only had marital relations 3 times. Twice on their wedding night and once the next day.  Fortunately three times was enough as it brought forth the much required heir, Charlotte. After Charlotte's birth, the Prince made out a new will in which he left all his property to "Maria Fitzherbert, my wife". To Princess Caroline, the wife his Church recognized as well as mother of his child, he gallantly gave one shilling. The Prince returned to the arms of his real wife as well as the arms of all his countless mistresses. Caroline found herself in the arms of so many men she was soon called "The Immoral Queen". They never lived together.  George even forbade her from attending his coronation but she was his Queen.
The Prince of Wales continued to live off and on with Mrs. Fitzherbert until their relationship ended in about 1811.  When George IV died in 1830, it was discovered he was not only wearing her "Lover's Eye" locket around his neck, he had kept all of her letters. His brother, the new King, offered to make her a duchess for all of her suffering. She refused.  She died as Mrs. Fitzherbert, well-respected among those whose respect was worthy of having, in 1837.
This is the romantic history behind "A Lover's Eye". Lover's Eyes set in lockets, brooches and even rings became quite the token of love among illicit lovers. Perhaps even among licit lovers who enjoyed romance. Both men and women sat for them.  They continued in popularity well into the 1850's. Or until the camera's invention. 
Women in my day still understood the power of the eyes as the Eric Segal excerpt above most firmly attests.  But it appears the women of today do not.  Something has seriously gone missing.” 
The above article is from A Lover’s Eye by Mrs. Peperium, November 18, 2009



Rather serendipitously, I came across a very talented artist who was willing to collaborate with me on incorporating new “Lover’s Eye” paintings into some of my antique lockets.  The Annabelle Necklace is the first result of that collaboration.  

Annabelle Necklace


As you can see, the beautiful eye is painted in a style to resemble the antiquity of its older counterparts.  The stunning locket, unique in the fact it  has paste stones on both sides in addition to a paste stone encrusted bow, is the perfect frame to showcase the very talented beauty of the eye art.  However, there is a very unique surprise on the other side - a diminutive Napoleonic bee in 24k gold vermeil, floating in a sea of 4 carats of stunning blue sapphires.  From the back side, you can also see the artist’s signature and date.






For this first necklace, I truly wanted the beauty of the artistry and antiquity to be the focal point of the design.  Generous moonstone rondelles with their “blue flash” are juxtaposed with grey freshwater pearls and hand-coiled accents of silver pyrite to enhance the antique beauty of the locket.  As most of these lockets are a combination of silver and gold, that combination also extends to the hand linked chain to allow the owners to wear it with either preference.










Friday, October 14, 2011

The Tableau Collection - Keepsake Lockets

Too precious! How many of us kept a lock of hair from our children's first haircuts?

Once I get and idea in my head, I can become a little OCD.  Such has been the case this past summer and early fall in my quest to find antique lockets, brooches and clasps that can be used to create little “Tableaus” or pictures.  Historically, these lockets were used to house not only photos of family members and sweethearts, but a lock of their hair.  The hair was often plaited, woven or styled to create a “Prince of Wales” plume.  An interesting fact I discovered - when men/boys went off to fight during the Civil War, they often left behind a lock of hair for their wives and sweethearts in the event they did not come home.  Someone recently said to me, “That’s creepy!”.  Personally, I disagree - as humans we have been collecting hair from our children (first curl/haircut), family, sweethearts and pets as little mementos since the dawn of man.  
Many of these gorgeous lockets and brooches have not survived with the original hair intact, so I think it is only fair to try and preserve the unique workmanship of these gorgeous lockets by incorporating them into little “pictures”.  I have filled the recesses of these lockets with very small gemstones and sometimes, if there is room, a vermeil charm that can tell a story.

via Project Style

Ava Necklace - French Paste Reliquary Brooch with rubies and carved labradorite leaves.
The Ava Necklace was once a reliquary brooch.  The brooch was filled with little rubies, a carved labradorite leaf and a Byzantine cross.  Most antique brooches have a pin that extends outside the diameter of the brooch.  Rather than snip the pin, thus devaluing the piece - a small round bead has been added for comfort.

Palmer-Weiss

Morgaine Necklace - 14k gold Cannetille turquoise locket with 1ct. white topaz.  How cute is this French Napoleonic Bee?
The Morgaine Necklace has a delicate chain of the most minuscule turquoise is interspersed with beautiful blue kyanite faceted beads and flanked by smooth spring-green chrysoprase rondelles.  The dainty chain is the perfect accent to highlight the gorgeous and complex 14K gold cannetille and turquoise locket (ca.1830).  The tiny glass compartment of the locket has been filled with 1ct. of white topaz while a grouping of kyanite, chrysoprase and sleeping beauty turquoise briolette amulets acts as the background for a regal little vermeil Napoleonic bee.  The locket can be easily removed and worn as a brooch.

Katie Stassi

via Design Fabulous

Siren's Song Necklace - Step-faceted aquamarine nuggets & mermaid riding a seahorse on a frothy wave of aquamarine bubbles.

Keeping pace with the recent New York Fashion Week’s Spring 2012 haute couture influence of the mermaid silhouette, the exquisite Siren’s Song Necklace is certain to make a splash.  The gorgeous and highly desirable color-saturated aquamarine faceted nuggets, only serve to enhance the diaphanous antique French silver paste locket (ca. 1900) filled with a 24k gold vermeil mermaid riding a seahorse in a frothy wave of aquamarine bubbles.
Now for the truth - I still have several of these lockets waiting to be made up - it seems as though I can’t resist the gorgeous designs.  If you are interested in having one made up with keepsake elements that represent your life, leave me a little comment or email me at karensugarmanitr@aol.com.